Do you think splicing 100' of wire onto a GTO exit wand would work?
in [Repair]
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From: mm on 2 Feb 2010 14:31 On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 16:33:19 GMT, zekfrivo(a)zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote: >In article <02dcc3e0db1796480f8c651377e7986c(a)tioat.net>, Elmo <dcdraftworks(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote: >>On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 20:16:20 -0500, news(a)jecarter.us wrote: >> >>> Could be like the gate at a corporate site I occasionally visit - for >>> entry, you speak to a guard and show ID via a TV camera and the guard >>> opens the gate. A device like the one in this thread is used to allow >>> people to exit the gate. >> >>Yes. The "typical" gate setup is: >> >>1a. Owner approaches gate and flips remote control to get in. >>1b. Utility truck approaches gate and pushed their logged 4-digit combo on >>the digital keypad to get in (whether or not someone is home) >>1c. Guest arrives and has to press the intercom button and can only be let >>in if someone inside the house provides them access. Guest then pushes a >>button on the keypad to open the gate. >> >>2. In all cases above, the gate closes 25 seconds after it was opened. >> >>3. In all cases above, when the owner/utility/guest leaves, the gate >>automatically opens for them via the exit want magnetic field disturbance >>sensor. >> >>At least that's how my gate is set up. Some are set up to open via >>cellphone but mine isn't fancy. > >I am familiar with only one setup. A sewage plant. The opperator Mine is similar to the one you know. It is residential, but guests have to bring some sewage to get in. >controls gate open or close, and the pickup prevents the gate >from ramming into the vehicle. > >You must have many guests and visitors to warrent this setup you have, > >greg
From: mm on 2 Feb 2010 14:34 On Mon, 01 Feb 2010 23:08:04 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl(a)cruzio.com> wrote: > >>Researching the web, it appears GTO sells three wands: >>http://www.gtopro.com/access_controls.htm >>- FM139 = 50 feet wired (about $180) >>- FM140 = 100 feet wired (about $200) >>- FM141 = 150 feet wired (about $225) When I read the 50 foot price, I thought it was 100 dollars, not 180. I thought 125 for another 100 feet was much too much, but it's only a 45 dollar difference.
From: William Sommerwerck on 2 Feb 2010 14:40 >> Get the manufacturer to give you full credit towards a longer cable. > Why? They OP decided to buy the particular length and didn't indicate > they were misled. True. But the cabling is not horribly expensive. The company should do this out of "common courtesy".
From: mm on 2 Feb 2010 14:55 Be sure to let us know how this turns out. You owe us. More below. On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:07:32 +0000 (UTC), Elmo <dcdraftworks(a)Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote: >On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 08:39:31 -0500, PeterD wrote: > >> just make sure your splice is absolutely waterproof. >> 3M makes underground splice kits that may work > >I have to find the 4-wire multi-stranded shielded cable first ... but I >will try the splice kit at the same time if I can find that also. > >This morning I called GTO technical support again at 800-543-1236 and spoke >this time with a woman with a southern accent who told me a splice could be >done, but she said the problem is that it will eventually break. And, since No, it won't. Not if it's soldered correctly. Have you soldered much? Do you know how to solder well, to clean the wire first -- I just scrape four sides of the wire with a fairly sharp knife --, use flux core solder designed for electrical work, and make it hot enough to not get a cold solder joint? >it will be underground, I won't know where it is and I'll be calling Of course you'll know where it is. It will be 50 feet from where you buried the wand. And about 100 feet from where the controller is. Note how far from the driveway you bury it and measure how far from thecontroller it is, and write it down and tape it to the controller box. >technical support who won't know that it was spliced while they >troubleshoot. The next owner might well be in that situation. Make sure you leave clear documentation for him. The guy who sold me my house spent an hour teling me things about it. >When I asked "but CAN it be spliced?", she confirmed there is no difference >in the wand itself between the longer lengths of wire as the sensitivity >adjustments are done on the gate control board itself. As I thought in some other post of mine. >I'll look for that 3M waterproof splice kit. I think I'll need a >low-voltage splice kit. Anything that works for high voltages works for low voltages. I'm not sure what the advantage of the kit is. Certainly if I couldn't find the kit, I'd just wrap the self-fusing tape around the wire, going an inch or more past the splice, past the part where the original insulation is still intact. My neighbor had some semi-skilled guys putting in a small fence and they cut my phone line. Of course they "took repsonsibilty" and they were winding the wires together and taping them with standard electric tape. I came out and stopped them, and soldered the connections and wrapped them in this self-fusing tape, and even when I had dial-up internet, I got very good connection speeds. Later, someone told me I should let the phone company repair it and indeed they would do it for free, but the guy on the phone said all they do is use those gel-filled connectors and what I did was better. Nothing beats solder, and no tape beats Scotch 23. Now, if you don't have an connector on the end of the wire, you could use heat-shrink tubing, but though it looks real nice, it doesn't have much tension when shrinking or afterwareds, and I think the scotch 23, silicone tape will do a much better job. > According to this web site, the voltage is 8 to 32 >VAC or 8 to 26 VDC with a miniscule current of 1.5ma. >http://www.allsecurityequipment.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GTO-FM141 BTW, are you near powerlines? Most places aren't but a few are.
From: mm on 2 Feb 2010 21:00
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 17:19:25 -0500, Meat Plow wrote: > >>No. Soldering is better. The phone company doesn't want to spend the >>time it takes to solder each connection, up to hundreds a day, and it >>has a staff to go fix problems when they develop, as well as >>electronic tools to find the break in a wire, by injecting a signal at >>one end if necessary. > >Hey please stop cross posting this bullshit to SER. The trouble is, we don't know which group the OP is reading. We don't know which group gets the "post" and which gets the cross post. I used to say which group I was posting from when I crosspostd, but no one else seems to think of that. >Thanks. |